Olson Saw Blade Chart:
View Olson's Scoll Saw Blade Selection Chart for indepth scoll saw blade information and to compare blades.
Colour Conversion Link:
View DecoArt's Colour Conversion Chart to find replacement colours for Delta Ceramcoat paints (note: link will open in a new window).
Other Americana Links:
- Americana Opacity Chart
- Americana Shading & Highlight Chart
- Plaid FolkArt Colour Conversion Chart
- Jo Sonja's Artists' Colours Colour Conversion Chart
Oils Converted to Americana:
Sherry Nelson's decorative painting books reference Winsor/Newton & Prima Oils. For your convenience please use the following chart to convert to Americana Acrylics.
- Alizarin Crimson = Deep Burgundy + Santa Red 2:1
- Black (Ivory) = Black (highlight: Neutral Grey)
- Bright Red = Calico Red (shade: Deep Burgundy, highlight: Blush)
- Burnt Sienna = Traditional Burnt Sienna (shade: Russet, highlight: Tangelo Orange)
- Cadmium Lemon = Lemon Yellow (shade: Olde Gold, highlight: Light Buttermilk
- Cadmium Orange = Pumpkin (shade: Burnt Sienna, highlight: Cadmium Yellow)
- Cadmium Red = Primary Red (shade: Napa Red, highlight: Tangelo Orange)
- Cadmium Scarlet = Cadmium Orange + Cadmium Red 2:1
- Cadmium Yellow = Primary Yellow + Tangerine 2:1
- Cadmium Yellow Pale = Cadmium Yellow + Lemon Yellow
- Cerulean Blue = Victorian Blue (shade: Midnight Black, highlight: Victorian Blue + White 1:1)
- French Ultramarine = True Blue (shade: Prussian Blue, highlight: True Blue + White 1:1)
- Indigo = Payne's Grey (shade: Black, highlight: Uniform Blue)
- Jaune Brilliant = Sand + Toffee 5:1
- Magenta = Napa Red + Royal Fuchsia + Dioxazine Purple 2:1:1
- Oxide of Chromium = Forest Green + Leaf Green 1:1
- Permanent Magenta = Royal Fuchsia + Plum 8:1
- Permanent Rose = Boysenberry Pink (shade: Country Red, highlight: Spice Pink)
- Prussian Blue = Midnight Blue (shade: Payne's Grey, highlight: Sapphire)
- Purple Madder Alizarin = Plum + Black Plum 3:1
- Raw Sienna = Raw Sienna (shade: Burnt Umber, highlight: Honey Brown)
- Raw Umber = Raw Umber (shade: Soft Black, highlight: Mississippi Mud)
- Sap Green = Avocado + Yellow Green 1:1
- Titanium White = White (shade: Grey Sky)
- Winsor Red = Cadmium Orange + Cadmium Red 1:1
- Winsor Violet = Dioxazine Purple (shade: Payne's Grey, highlight: Lavender)
- Yellow Ochre = True Ochre + Raw Sienna
Lazy Susan Mounting Instructions:
The instructions shown here are a guideline to use when mounting lazy susans.
- Center the bottom of the lazy susan bearing onto your base (the bottom of the lazy susan has holes close to the large center hole).
- Attach the bearing to your base using #6 x 1/2" self tapping wood screws #ST615 (B). Attach all four bottom holes.
- Drill a hole through the lazy susan base (A) large enough to accommodate a screwdriver and screw. This hole must be aligned with the upper plate holes (C) in the top half of the bearing. If you desire, you can fill this hole with a wood plug after assembly.
- Turn the base over and center it on the underside of the lazy susan top. Rotate the base until you can see one of the four upper plate holes (C). Using a #6 wood screw, attach this corner to the turntable top (D). Rotate the base until you can attach the next screw. Repeat until all four corners are secure.
Clock Movement Assembly Instructions:
The instructions shown here are a guideline to use when assembling your quartz clock movements.
Selecting the Proper Shaft Length:
The "threaded shaft length" is the total length of the shaft which passes through your "dial" and allows the washer and mounting nut to be attached. You will need approximately 1/8" of the threaded shaft length for the mounting hardware (#D & #E). The "overall shaft length" is the total shaft length - from the movement through everything to where the second hand push fits. To select the proper shaft length, carefully measure the thickness of the material the movement shaft will pass through. This is your "dial" thickness - if your "dial" is 1/2" thick, you should select the #C580 movement. If your dial is over 1/2" thick you will need the next larger size.
A clock can be hung one of two ways - if the movement is located at the balance point of the clock you can use the metal hanger (A) which attaches to the clock movement. Otherwise, use a separate hanger at the balance point so that the clock hangs properly. Movement shafts fit through a 3/8" hole. Slide a rubber gasket (B) onto the movement followed by the clock dial (C) or clock case. Before mounting make sure to remove any protective plastic coating from the metal dial and hands. Place the brass washer (D) over the shaft and attach dial mounting nut (E). Gently press the hour hand (F) onto the shaft at the 12:00 position. Place the minute hand (G) at the same position. Gently screw the nut (H) in place being careful not to screw too tightly. Finally press the second hand (J) onto the end in the 12:00 position. A small knob is located on the back of the movement and can be turned to set the hands. The hands can also be set by rotating the minute hand gently with your fingers.
The instructions shown here are specifically for the Mini Clock Movements. Stockade's specialty clock movements are assembled in a similar manner but may have a few variations.
Clock Fit-Up Instructions:
These instructions are a guideline to use with Stockade's Clock Fit-Ups.
The time setting crown is located behind the bezel at the position of 3 o'clock. To set the time, pull out the crown and turn it until the hands show the current time. Push crown back in the normal position to restart clock.
The battery is accessible from the backside of the clock. Insert a screwdriver or blade into the case notch at the side of the back cover and open. The battery is held in position by a tiny metal plate. Move the plate sideways to remove battery. Replace with button cell #SR626SW (Ucc 377, Ray-O-Vac, RW329 or equivalent) with positive pole facing outward. Make sure that it is held securely in position by the metal plate and replace cover.